Last year I had an amazing opportunity to visit a dairy factory that produces exceptionaI Parmigiano Reggiano, called Latteria Sociale Cooperativa La Grande. It was one of the most important things on my to do list for my Italy road trip.
Starting from snowy Dolomites, over Lago di Garda, Emilia Romagna was closer and closer. It was early November and that day it started raining, making the decision to go to one of Parmigiano Reggiano’s factories, perfectly convenient!
Even though my expectations were high, the visit really made my day!
It is one of those unique experiences that stay with you for a long time. After seeing the production site we had a tasting of Parmigiano of different ages topped with local Aceto Balsamico di Modena, which was the cherry on top!
What is Parmigiano Reggiano?
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is a traditional Italian product from cow’s milk that is made entirely in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua, to the right of the river Po, and Bologna to the left of the river Reno.
It holds the D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Protetta), translated to Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), meaning that a product has to be exclusively made in a strictly defined place, following a specific production method. The whole production, modification and processing have to be done within that geographical area.
Different cow breeds
Red reggiana breed: “mother” of Parmigiano Reggiano
Before the 19th century all the Parmigiano was made from the milk of Red Reggiana cows, in Italian “Vaca Rossa”; a North Italian autochthonous breed. Compared to other breeds, Reggiana gives milk with a higher percentage of casein, which improves the maturation process, making it better suited for cheese making. For that reason, Red Cow’s Parmigiano is marketed after a minimum of 24 months. The cheese has an enhanced taste and aroma as well as better digestibility.
Friesian breed
At the end of the 19th century, along with the rising demand, the autochthonous breed was substituted almost entirely by a more productive one, a breed imported from Holland, called Friesian. The name comes from Friesland, a Dutch region where the original stock was found. Italians call it “Frisona”. Most of the Parmigiano Reggiano is made using the milk from Friesian cows nowadays, but still the Red Reggiana is much more praised, which shows on the price of the cheese.
How is Parmigiano Reggiano made?
While walking through the factory I had the chance to see the step-by-step production of this traditional product.
Step 1
The production starts the evening before, when the milk is collected and left overnight to skim. The fat obtained from this process is used for butter production.
Next, fresh whole milk from that morning is mixed with the skimmed one from the previous evening in a 1:1 ratio.
Step 2
That semi-skimmed milk is poured into the traditional bell-shaped copper cauldrons.
For each wheel of Parmigiano approximately 550 litres of milk are necessary. With the addition of whey starter obtained from the batch from the previous day, together with veal rennet, milk coagulates in about 10 minutes, forming a curd. Rennet is a set of enzymes found in the stomach lining of young ruminants (goats, lambs, calves) that curdles the casein (which is the main protein in milk), separating it from the liquid whey.
Step 3
That curd is broken down into tiny granules with a traditional tool called “spino”. The process is thoroughtly controlled by the experienced cheese master.
Then, the mixture is heated up to 55 °C causing the granules to sink to the bottom of the cauldron.
Step 4
After fifty minutes of resting, cheese makers lift up the cheese mass using a typical linen cloth. It is then manually cut into two pieces and placed into special moulds which will give it its final shape.
Step 5
After a few days the young wheels of Parmigiano are immersed into a saturated solution of salt and water, which starts the process of salting by absorption.
After a bit less than a month, the wheels are taken out and placed onto shelves where they will mature for at least a year.
Step 6
After 12 months an inspector from the Consortium for the Protection of Parmigiano-Reggiano checks the quality of each wheel by hitting it with a special hammer. Just by the sound it makes, they can select which wheel will get the indelible mark and go further into the maturation process.
Step 7
During maturation, each wheel gets turned and polished once a week. This process can last from 12 months to even 40 months or longer.
Parmigiano Reggiano vs Grana Padano
Honestly, for a long time I wasn’t familiar with the exact difference between these two amazing Italian cheeses. Maybe some of you will be also interested to find out!
Grana Padano also holds a D.O.P. but its production area is much bigger than that of Parmigiano Reggiano. It can be produced in several regions: Piedmont, Veneto, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna and Trentino Alto-Adige.
Production differences
Type of milk
As we know now, Parmigiano Reggiano is made from a mix of whole and skimmed milk; while in the production of Grana Padano, they use raw milk that has been partially skimmed by a method called natural surface skimming.
As a result, Grana Padano has less fat content than Parmigiano Reggiano.
Since aromas are soluble in fat, it is no surprise that Parmigiano Reggiano is a more aromatic cheese.
Preservatives
There is another important difference in their production process.
In the Grana Padano production it is allowed to add lysozyme, while it is strictly forbidden when producing Parmigiano Reggiano.
Lysozyme is an enzyme that has antimicrobial properties, and in this case it is used as a preservative. It is naturally present in our saliva, tears and both human and animal milk.
Taste differences
Parmigiano Reggiano generally has a more intense flavour, and it becomes more aromatic the longer it ages. On the other hand, Grana Padano is softer, butterier and milder in taste.
How to store Parmigiano Reggiano?
Vacuum packed: ideally stored in the fridge to keep its aromas.
Freshly cut/ out of the pack: store it in the fridge in a glass or plastic container or else wrapped in food-grade plastic film.
It is not advisable to freeze Parmigiano! The thawing process can modify its structure, resulting in potential changes in its texture, flavour or colour.
How long does Parmigiano last?
For vacuum-packed Parmigiano Reggiano, it is best to check the labelled shelf life, but usually, it lasts for several months.
If you open the packaging or buy a freshly cut parmesan, its shelf life will depend on the length of the maturation of the cheese:
12-18 months old: two weeks
24 months: 1 months
In case some mould forms on the surface, you can remove it with the knife; it is still safe to eat the rest.
Nutritional value
A serving of 24 months Parmigiano Reggiano is 25 grams and it will add 100 kcal to your daily intake.
Parmigiano is rich in fat (30%), and protein (32%) and has significant amounts of calcium and phosphorus. It has no carbohydrates.
If you consume it with moderation in mind it can be a beneficial addition to your diet.
Naturally lactose-free label
Lactose, a type of sugar naturally present in milk, gets fermented in a process called lactic fermentation, where lactic bacteria naturally present in milk turn sugar into lactic acid. It happens in the first 48 h of the production process.
From 2016. it is allowed to label it “naturally lactose-free” if there is less than 0.1g lactose on 100 g of the product.
I hope after reading this article you know a little bit more about this unique cheese! If you haven’t had the chance to visit a Parmigiano Reggiano factory, what are you waiting for? Pack up your things and get on the next flight to Italy! If you have, let me know how your experience was in the comments below.
