Oh, Italia! The land of pasta, gelato and espresso. And although those may be their most famous exports, they are far from being the only unique products that this beautiful country has given the world.

Travelling through Italy I was amazed by its gastronomic diversity, but most of all, their love for tradition and their efforts to preserve it. I tried countless traditional regional foods, some of which I’d never even heard of before. However, the one I am going to be talking about in this story is well known to almost everybody: Aceto Balsamico di Modena, or Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.

As a big lover of Balsamic Vinegar, something that has been for a long time on my bucket list was to visit a Balsamic Vinegar factory, or as they call it, Acetaia. And I have to tell you that, along with the visit to a Parmigiano Reggiano cheese factory, it places on my top 3 experiences of this unforgettable trip.
After evaluating countless great options out there, I decided to go for a medium-scale, top-quality Acetaia that throughout its many centuries of existence, has earned the right to consider itself one of the top producers in the world: Acetaia Giusti.

As a matter of fact, and as I only found out later through the visit, from the second quarter of the XX century they had the honour to be the official suppliers of Aceto Balsamico for the King of Italy and the Royal House of Savoy. So yeah, to say that I was pretty satisfied with my choice would be an understatement. And after seeing the care and passion they put into their business, that feeling only got multiplied tenfold.

But first, let’s get some context. Modena is a city in the Emilia-Romagna region, in the northern part of Italy. It is located halfway between two other cities that any food lover is well acquainted with: Parma and Bologna. The region itself is considered the food hub of the whole country, and let me assure you, it really stands up to the title!

Something that not everybody knows is that Modena is not the only city that has been recognized as a rightful producer of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar. Aceto Balsamico produced in nearby Reggio Emilia is also granted the European Union’s PDO and PGI status, as long as it complies with the traditional methodology and local origin of the produce.

What is Balsamic Vinegar?

Balsamic Vinegar is a syrupy, slightly sweet and acidic vinegar obtained from cooking white grape must until its sugars have concentrated, and then fermented for a variable amount of time in a set of wooden barrels called Batteria.

What types are there?

PDO (Protected Designation of Origin)

The one and only. The Holy Grail of vinegars. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP (as it is called in Italian) is made nowadays following pretty much the same traditional methods that their ancestors used to apply centuries ago.

The decade-long process starts by cooking its only ingredient, grape must -generally obtained from Trebbiano and Lambrusco varieties, although it could include any PDO wine varieties that are locally grown- until reduced to a thick, viscous consistency.

After that, the remaining liquid is transferred to the previously mentioned wooden casks, all made from different wood varieties –mulberry, cherry, chestnut, juniper and French oak in the case of the Acetaia Giusti-, and of different sizes –the biggest around 50 litres and the smallest 15 litres-.

Here is where Balsamic Vinegar PDO distinguishes itself from any other. Once a year, and by means of a method called “Travasi e Rincalzi” (which translates roughly to “to pour and to add”) a certain amount of liquid is decanted from the smallest barrel of the Batteria. This barrel, in turn, gets refilled with the liquid from the second smallest one, and so on, until the largest cask gets refilled with brand-new unfermented grape must.

As the process goes on, and evaporation plays its role, the vinegar gets thicker, and its colour, flavour and aromas get more concentrated.

This is not a vinegar you want to be cooking with. It’s perfect as it is, and a great condiment to pour over some Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (as I had the chance to see for myself), drizzled on top of some ice cream, or as a sweet final touch to some roasted vegetables like Brussels sprouts.

PGI (Protected Geographical Indication)

Not as luxurious as its PDO sibling, but still a remarkable product in itself, especially considering the low quality of all the wannabe Aceto Balsamico products in the market nowadays.

It is made by combining grape must (a minimum of 20%) with wine vinegar (10% minimum) and at least 10-year-old aged vinegar. It may also contain caramel (max. 2%) for colour stability. The mixture gets transferred to big wooden vats, where it goes through a process of acetification and maturation.
The minimum maturation time is 60 days, although it may go on for years.

At the end of the ageing process, a group of experts carry out all the necessary tests to ensure that the final product meets all the organoleptic standards. These include, among others, a minimum level of 6% of acidity or a maximum alcohol strength of 1.5% by volume.

This vinegar is really good for vinaigrettes or marinades. You can even pour some in a pan and reduce it until it gets a thicker consistency if you would like to use it like the PDO one.

Which are the variables?

Grape variety

The seven local grape varieties that are permitted to be used in the production of both PDO and PGI are Trebbiano, Lambrusco, Sangiovese, Ancellotta, Montuni, Fortana and Albana.

Wooden casks

As mentioned above, ageing barrels are generally made from cherry tree, juniper, chestnut, mulberry, french oak, and sometimes ash or acacia. However, there is no rule of thumb for this, and every producer may have their own unique combinations.

Ageing time

In the case of the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP, a minimum of 12 years of maturation gives Affinato, whereas if the ageing goes on for at least 25 years, the resulting elixir is called Extravecchio.

Some Acetaie have even more exclusive options for those who seek to taste heaven on earth (and who are lucky enough to afford it): Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP aged for 80-100 years.

As for the PGI version, If this process is carried on for longer than 3 years, then the term “aged” (“invecchiato”) may be added to the label.

The rest of the options in the market are not subject to any regulations regarding the ageing time involved, leaving plenty of room for many questionable products with unwanted added ingredients. Remember to always check the label!

Alternative products

Saba

This is another name given to the reduced, concentrated grape must used at the start of the Balsamic-making process. It is a product in itself and can be used as a substitute for Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP in many dishes, especially as a topping over some fresh berries, or even as a balancing sweet note in some vinaigrettes.

Condimento balsamico

Usually, a great-quality product that doesn’t fall under the ”Tradizionale” categorisation, either because it has been produced outside of the Modena-Reggio Emilia area, or because the ageing process lasts less than the minimum of 12 years needed to be named so.

You should use this one as you would the Traditional PDO, except for the fact that you won’t need to get a new mortgage every time you buy a new bottle.

White balsamic vinegar

Probably the most unrelated product of this list, although not a bad inclusion to your pantry, in case you are looking to try something out of the norm. Just like regular Balsamic Vinegar, it is made from reduced white grape must, although in this case is usually pressure-cooked to avoid the caramelisation that gives all these balsamic products their characteristic dark colour.
It pairs well with some earthy vegetables, and it can add a special touch to your marinades and some of your dressings.

Balsamic glaze

A dense glaze made usually from grape must, Aceto Balsamico IGP and some thickeners to make it look like the PDO version. It may also have added sweeteners.
Honestly, with all the options we have seen, I can only tell you to try and avoid buying it. A much better alternative would be to reduce some Balsamic Vinegar PGI until you get a similar consistency.

How long does Balsamic Vinegar last?

Thanks to its acidity, Balsamic Vinegar has an almost infinite shelf life, and you would rarely find a best-before label in an Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP bottle. It is actually not necessary, by law, for the producers to include one. Just thinking about the fact that it is an already decade-long aged product, it kind of gives a clue about how long it will last.

However, the story changes when we talk about the cheaper options. Due to the fact that these will include some thickeners or added sweeteners, their shelf life will be much shorter. In these cases, always follow the recommendations given by the manufacturers.
Again, do not forget to check the ingredients list.

Giusti special recipe

As part of the visit to the Acetaia Giusti, I had the chance to walk around their facilities, including a museum with many items of great historical value, such as the Giusti Recipe. This document is the first-ever registered piece of paper that describes the methodology involved in the creation of a “Perfect Balsamic Vinegar”. It was first presented in 1863, with the occasion of the Agricultural Exhibition of Modena, and has, ever since, been the standard by which all the Traditional Balsamic Vinegars PDO have been measured.

So, next time you are passing next to Modena, I hope you include a visit to one of their many great Acetaias, where you can witness the creation of this extremely complex product for yourself. It is an absolutely amazing experience that makes you feel so appreciative of every single drop that falls into your salad, cheese or soup.

Now that you know what the “real stuff” is, you can confidently pick the product you want from the market shelves, recognising exactly what you are buying. If you are planning a visit and would like to get some tips on the best foodie destinations to go around the area, I will be happy to help. And if you have already been there and want to share your experience, don’t be shy and leave a comment below!

I want to thank Acetaia Giusti for their warm welcome and for providing all the pictures you see in this story.